My companions for the evening - note their ear plugs!!
The magnificent elephant stone
View to the mainland
Keith doing what Keith does!
Destination and avoidance
I'm still in a post Spring Fling stupor but felt it about time to update the blog and share my Hestan experience.
After many failed attempts due mostly to the inclement weather a time was finally set for Keith Kirk, (Galloway Countryside Ranger, photographer and nature head) and Mary Smith (writer, poet and traveller) and myself (singer, midge-magnet and snapper) to meet and do it!!
Our appointed meeting place was a midge infested roadside layby on the way to Balcary Bay, I was there first so took the opportunity to take some distant images of our goal - basically, to avoid the damned nipping blighters before being joined by Mary and Keith. Keiths opening and only safety message was thus: follow me and if you find yourself in quicksand then back-up as quickly as possible! Simple - I'd be doing just that Keith, no worries.
And, off we set, me in wellies and Keith and Mary in new-fangled neoprene shoes. The mile and a half walk across the mudflats as we followed out the receding tide was a pleasurable stroll made all the moreso by being able to view well-known and recognisable landmarks from a totally new and different perspective. I think, though I could be wrong, I sang all the way out there! While Mary and Keith (both Castle Douglas raised) were deep in conversation about this and that (I really wish I'd listened in more and not been singing) the snippets I picked up were both interesting and rather esoteric focussed as they were on tales, people and Stewartry lore.
I also listened to Keiths stories of deaths and near deaths as the quicksands took their toll over the years
Finally, we approached the dangerous bit - crossing the burn and the quicksands. As we waited for the tide to further recede I casually mentioned to Mary and Keith how terrific it would be to see an otter (as this to me appeared to be a quite likely setting) we all spotted a sinuous movement going back up the burn in the opposite direction to the flow and Keith remarked that this was possibly a large fish feeding and then discounted this as a mere ripple. We continued to watch and were stunned to see the velvety brown fur of an otter breach the surface and do its graceful arcing out of the water - WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I nearly wet myself. I have never until this point had the privilege of seeing an otter - a rubicon has been crossed and I feel different.
My utter and profound pleasure was matched, I believe, by Mary the two of us were transfixed. Keiths response was instant - he had his SLR out and he was prepared in seconds, seconds later he was downwind and about forty yards away with his shutter firing off like crazy. Brilliant to see an expert wildlife photographer in action - cheers Keith. I opted for the easy option of taking shots of Keith taking shots of the otter!!
After the excitement of the otter the tide had receded sufficiently to allow our traverse of the burn (This IS dangerous and should be avoided unless in the company of someone like Keith) my wellies were no match for my neoprened colleagues - despite my efforts to stay dry and the exhortations from Keith not to be 'a big wuss' - I ended up with full wellies but it mattered not a jot. We'd made it safely over the burn and onto the famous 'rack' the natural causeway made up of rocks and mussels by the thousand. This used to be a commercial enterprise, fishermen regularly tending and collecting the mussels from the beds.
And now the island approached! I was there!
One approaches the island with a degree of respect and excitement, well I do, I love the feelings being on an island invokes. One feels seperateness, distance, freedom and isolation alongside liberty all at the same time - only an island can do this to me.
The 'house' on the island is a small rather delapidated single story three roomed cottage with the remains of sheds and a byre and a long since used garden enclosed by tumbling stone dyke walls - it was excellent.
One scrambles up the hillside being confronted and bombarded by the noise of hundreds of gulls (Herring and Lesser Black Bcaked in the main) and their precious nests of two or three speckled eggs are abundant underfoot, so one walks with great care and concern. Halfway up the climb and the remains of a steading is noted, legend has it that this was the summer house of John Balliol who along with his wife Devorguilla established Sweetheart Abbey at New Abbey - theirs is a love story, comparable only to Peter Andre and Jordan, probably!
The lighthouse is a small affair though worthy nonetheless.
We had but an hour or so of time on the island before the incoming tide would have made our way back impossible and impassable.
Just time enough to visit the copper mine and stroke the elephant stone (if ever a natural phenomenon was worthy of an animal epithet then this is it!!)
Before rounding the cape and heading back along the rack and the burn and the hike over the sands - again with me singing and Keith and Mary deep in dialogue!
I loved it and really can't wait for the return visit alongside Keith and Mary hopefully to spend the whole day on the place......................grrrrrrr!
Thanks for sharing this with me - I hope it sits well with Keith and Mary!!!
'til next time.
Go easy and be nice to each other.
Love
Phil
xx
